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I have an upsidedown catfish,
(I am not sure his scientific
name since I have heard
there are many kinds, but
he is white with brown spots.)
which just today I noticed
he had these tiny white
dots down his body. I know
about ick, and I am concerned
that this is what it could
be, but unlike ick, the
spots run down his body
in a pattern of 2's (much
like they are part of his
coloring.) There are not
a large amount of spots
nor are they in a small,
compact area. Are these
spots commonly seen on the
upsidedown catfish, or should
I be concerned? Please get
back to me as soon as possible.
Thanks,
Anonymous
Reply.
Hello, there is one species of fish called the Upside
Down Catfish (UD Cat), which has the scientific
name Synodontis nigriventris. There are many other
catfish in the same genus, Synodontis, and most
of them swim upside down at least part of the time.
Click
here for more information, a picture, and a
small video of Upside Down Catfish.
You described the
spots on your UD Cat, and I have seen similar spots
on UD Cats. I'm not sure what these spots are. The
spots that I saw were all the same size and, as
you mentioned, regularly spaced.
Ick is a disease
with small white spots, and the ick spots are about
the same size as the spots I've seen on UD Cats,
but the ick spots are not all the same size, they
vary, and ick spots are irregularly spaced on the
fish.
So I think the spots
on your UD Cat are not ick spots and probably not
a disease. But I would recommend that you carefully
observe your UD Cat and all your other fish for
other Signs of Stress and Disease. Are their fins
clamped? Are any of your fish rubbing themselves?
This is often called glancing. Be sure your fish
are eating well. Little white ick spots are just
one Sign of Stress and Disease. Look for other signs
too. Click
here for more about the Signs of Stress and
Disease.
thanks for your reply, and
I found out yesterday from
looking at some more of
the same kinds of upside-down
catfish, that those tiny
white dots are just part
of them, and its not a disease
or signs of stress. So thankfully
there is nothing to worry
about ...
Anonymous
Reply. Hello
again, good I'm glad you looked at some UD Cats.
That was a good simple idea, but why didn't I think
of it and suggest it to you. Thanks for your follow
up.
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Hi,I've a got question
to ask.I bought a male Betta
2 months ago. I had it in
a Bettavase.He was active and
healthy. I recently bought
a 4 galAll-Glass Aquarium.
I always use spring water.
l put the water in the aquarium
and let it set for 24 hours.
Before putting him in. This
aquarium has a light on
top plus a air pump. The
light was on for about 4
hours with the air pump
going. I turned it off before
going to bed.
The next morning he acted
fine. Before leaving for
workI turned the light
on with no air pump running.
After 8 hours of work. I
went to feed him. He started
acting sick. Did I stress
him out when I leftthe light on for
so long?I did turn out the
light offthen. He acts like
he can't breathe. No energy.
I hope I didn't kill him.
We enjoy watching him. I
hope you can help me.
Thanks again!
Lucy K.
Reply.
Hello Lucy. Here is the short answer. When you moved
your Betta from the vase to the aquarium, there
was probably a big change in the water chemistry
that shocked the Betta. Sometimes fish go into immediate
shock. Sometimes it takes a few hours and sometimes
as long as three days.
I assume that spring water
is bottled drinking water, which is good for fish.
But if the water in the vase was a little bit old
and stale, and you moved your Betta straight from
the vase to the aquarium with all fresh water, the
change could have shocked your Betta.
How to avoid this sort of
shock? Change 20% of the water in your Betta's vase
with the bottled spring water every day for at least
4 days before you move the Betta to the aquarium
with all fresh spring water. Also I would recommend
running the aquarium with the spring water for three
days before putting in any fish.
You were concerned
about the light, I doubt the light was a factor.
I noticed you said that you turned it off before
going to bed, and I wondered if you were referring
to the light or the pump or both. You should not
turn off an air pump or a filter. Always keep them
running. If you turn them off, it may quickly change
the chemistry in the aquarium. Of course you may
need to turn them off for a few minutes to clean
them, but I would say you should avoid turning pumps
and filters off for more than one hour.
hello, I have had what I
thought was a dwarf clawed
frog for almost three years
now in a cute little octagon
shaped 2 gal tank. She (I
think it's a she because
of the extension between
the hind legs) is only about
1 1/4 " long, and is solo
in this tank. A little few
weeks ago, I purchase another
dwarf clawed frog, and she
ate it! I thought, well,
maybe it was just too small
...
a week or so later, I moved
her (her name is bogey)
to a 10 gal tank with some
ghost shrimp ... she ate
them too! Although she is
small, she has all of the
characteristics of a clawed
frog, 4 front fingers, no
webbing, buggier eyes, all
this stuff I've checked
out at your site, and at
www.allaboutfrogs.org, which
is a very cool site as well.
Today she ate two feeder
goldfish in less than an
hour. Is this normal for
a dwarf clawed frog, or
do I have the other variety
of african clawed frog?
Thanks in adv. for your
help,
Karen
Reply.
Hello Karen, thank you for reporting your first
hand experiences. There are widely available types
of frogs. The African Dwarf Frog and the African
Clawed Frog.
African Dwarf Frogs
are very nice and tame little frogs that most people
find to be very comical and enjoyable. But African
Clawed Frogs are voracious predators that will eat
anything. You must have an African Clawed Frog,
which is illegal in our state to own. So we've never
had one or even seen one. Click
here for more about both of these types of frogs.
how should our 3 fantail
goldfish be behaving?
Since bringing them home
2 days ago, they just hover
together in a corner at
the bottom. We don't even
know if they have eaten
(no one has seen them eat).
Reply. Hello,
it sounds like your fish have crashed, which is
what we list as Sign #6 our list of the Signs of
Stress and Disease. Click
here to read more about the Signs of Stress
and Disease, and scroll down to #6 Crashed on the
Bottom. At this link you will also find a link to
the Recommended Treatment.
hi my name is nick ... i
have a oscar and i have
a question but first i LOVE
your website. i have my
oscar in my 10 gallon tank
for not i dont really want
to move him yet in my 55
becuase it doesnt have water
in it my question is if
i have my oscar in my 10
gallon tank for about 1-3
months then put him in the
the 55 gallon tank will
he still grow big to about
8-11" or will he not grow.
nick
glen burnie, maryland
Reply. Hello
nick, I could give you better advice, if you'd have
told me about how big your Oscar is now. If your
Oscar is less than 3" long, it will probably be
OK in your 10-gallon aquarium for a while. But it
will soon need to move into your 55-gallon aquarium,
and eventually your Oscar will need a much bigger
aquarium that your 55. Click
here for more information about Oscars.
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Hi, i had a figure 8 puffer
and he was very healthy,
until a few days ago he
suddenly died. Befor that
he was very good and ate
perfectly. I dont know whats
wrong. If you have
any ideas, please email
me.
Thanks,
Marco
Reply.
Hello Marco. If I had been there with you, I would
have looked at your Puffer. Has it been hurt? Has
it been nipped on its fins by some other fish? Does
it have a sore on its body? Can I see any fin rot?
I would very carefully look at the Puffer.
I would have looked
to see if there were any other dead fish in your
aquarium. I would have continued to ask myself questions.
Is there any uneaten food in this aquarium? Is Marco
feeding his fish more than they can eat? Click
here for more about feeding fish.
I would have first
checked the water quality in your aquarium. Is the
water clear? Or is it cloudy? Any foam on the surface?
Do bubbles pop immediately? How does the water smell?
What color is the water? Click
here for more about testing aquarium water with
your eyes and nose.
I would have checked
the thermometer to make sure the temperature of
the aquarium water was between 78 and 82. I would
have made sure there was some, but not too much,
Aquarium Salt in the water. I would have checked
the filter to be sure it was running correctly.
I would have checked the other fish in the aquarium
to be sure I thought they were all compatible with
the Puffer. Click
here for more about Puffer Fish.
I would have carefully
checked the other fish in the aquarium with the
Puffer to see if any of them have Signs of Stress
or Disease. Click
here for more about those Signs.
I'd have looked to
see how thick a layer of gravel you have in your
aquarium. Gravel more than 1/4" thick often causes
problems. I might have gently stirred a little patch
of gravel to see if it's clean. Click
here for more about aquarium gravel.
I would have asked
you about all the objects in your aquarium. Were
they all labeled and sold for use in aquariums?
Are any of them contaminated? Were your hands clean
when you put them in your aquarium? Any soap? Bleach?
Cleaners? Axel grease? Bug spray? Click
here to read more about contamination?
I suggest you go
through most of the pages in this web site, and
see if you can pick up an idea that might be linked
to your Puffer's death.
I have an Eclipes model
tank with a carbon filter
and a BIO-Wheel. I was just
wondering if "Stress Coat"
would be filtered out of
the water. And if it is,
than what, if any, are the
benifits of "Stress Coat"?
A. Chow
Bay Area, California 94530
Reply.
Hello again, I would guess that the "Stress Coat"
would be removed by the activated carbon that is
contained in the filter pad that goes in the Eclipse
Aquarium Hood. But I have rarely used "Stress Coat".
I hear from lots of people that they use it to relieve
fish stress.
I'm trying to think
of what I use. I keep it really simple and have
only a few items. There is Aquarium Salt and Quick
Cure. Click
here to read about them.
I always have some Water Conditioner, that I keep here on-hand
to use if a catastrophe strikes my aquarium or small
pond, and I need to change most of the water immediately.
Click
here for more about Water Conditioner.
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I am thinking about purchasing
a few Dwarf Puffers to put
in an aquarium by themselves
with various plants. I would
imagine that the appeal
of puffer fish is to see
them do what they are famous
for doing ...ballooning
up and displaying their
spines. I was wondering
if puffers in captivity
exhibit this behavior very
often. Also, do all puffers
have spines?
Jeremy
Reply.
Hello again Jeremy, the Dwarf Fresh Water Puffers
(DFW Puffers) don't need any Aquarium Salt in their
water, so you could keep some live plants in the
aquarium with these Puffer. But some Puffers require
Aquarium Salt in their water, and most Aquarium
Plants will not tolerate as much as salt as those
Puffer need.
I have seen many
Puffer Fish puff up. When we catch one in a net,
it usually rolls around and puffs up. But this is
a sure sign that it is feeling lots of stress, and
we try to avoid stressing our fish, so we never
catch a Puffer just to watch it puff up.
The DFW Puffers don't
have spines on the surface of their bodies like
some other types of Puffers have. But DFW Puffers
are not smooth and slimy like most other types of
fish. The surface of the skin on DFW Puffers feels
like my chin, when I haven't shaved for a day or
two. It's just kind of rough. Click
here for more information about Puffers and
more about Dwarf Fresh Water Puffers.
I have a single fantail
who has recently grown very
plump and has developed
a large red spot on her
behind under her tail.
Am I correct in assuming
that she is going to spawn??
If we get a couple of others
before she does can we possibly
breed more fish? Otherwise
if she is left alone I know
that the eggs will not develope,
but will she be all right?
Does she need any help to
spawn??
Thanks for any advice.
Michelle
Reply.
Hello Michelle, I could give you a better answer,
if I know the approximate size of your Fantail.
It's difficult to determine the gender of Fantails
by looking at them. You may be right that your fish
is a female, but I doubt that I would be sure, even
if I looked at it. Click
here for more about Fancy Goldfish including
Fantails.
If she is a
female, and she does lay eggs, the eggs must be
fertilized by a male Goldfish, or they will not
develop, as you said. If there
is no male present, she may go ahead and lay her
eggs. She won't need your help, and it should not
harm her. Click
here for more spawning Fancy Goldfish.
I am concerned about
the large red spot you described on her behind under
her tail. Maybe I've missed something, but this
red spot doesn't sound normal. I recommend you give
your Fantail the Recommended Treatment just in case
this red spot is a red sore. Click
here for more about the Recommended Treatment.
I had a large blue cichlid
several years ago before
I knew how to properly care
for fish. The pet store
that sold him to me didn't
know what he was for sure
but they labeled him a blue
cobalt. I have since then
don some research and found
that he did look a lot like
the fish in the pictures.
The question I have is how
big do the Lake Malawi Blue
Cobalt cichlids get? The
fish I had was about 8"
long and 3-4 inches tall.
I have never seen an african
get this big since that
fish. Is blue cobalt what
I am looking for, or is
it something else? I would
love to buy another one
of these beautiful fish.
Chris T.
Easley SC 29642
Reply.
Hello Chris, the fish at the top of this page in
the middle of the pictures is a large male Cobalt
Blue Zebra that was about 6" long when the picture
was taken. Does this look like the fish you had?
I have seen a few
larger Cobalt Blue Zebras that were larger than
6", but I've never seen one that was as big as the
one you described in your email.
The Cobalt Blue Zebra
is from Lake Malawi in East Africa. Click
here to see more of the kinds of African Cichlids
we have available.
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